What the selvedge is
Selvedges are the finished long edges created during weaving. They can be tighter, perforated, printed or structurally different from the main cloth, so most pattern pieces should not extend into them.
- Measure from the inner edge of one selvedge to the inner edge of the other.
- If the fabric is damaged or distorted near an edge, reduce the usable width.
- The Studio diagrams draw selvedges outside the usable cutting boundary.
Common widths are only starting points
Dressmaking fabric is often sold near 110 cm or 140–150 cm wide; US shops commonly describe comparable cloth as 44/45 in or 58/60 in. Actual cuttable width can differ by fabric and supplier.
- Measure the fabric you will buy when the layout is close.
- A wider cloth can reduce rows, but only if the pieces fit across it.
- Store descriptions and pattern-envelope assumptions are not substitutes for the actual usable width.
Grain and design can constrain placement
Plain, non-directional cloth allows the most freedom. Nap, a one-way print, stripes, plaid, borders and engineered motifs can prevent a piece from being turned merely because it fits geometrically.
- Keep every direction arrow consistent for nap and one-way prints.
- Allow extra cloth for matching repeats.
- Treat border and engineered placement as a manual design decision.
Measure before committing
Square the cut end, identify the true grain and inspect for defects. Enter the conservative cuttable width—not the optimistic bolt label—then verify the diagram before buying valuable cloth.